Amrikan

May 1, 2024
According to Shah, if one word could characterize Indian American cooking, it would be "adaptation." Many ingredients that give Indian foods their distinctive flavors are simply unavailable here, so U.S. cooks have long improvised from sources at hand. Shah's premier example of such creativity is gulab jamun, a popular doughnut found across India, where they are made with milk boiled for hours--but it turns out that Bisquick and dry milk powder combined with cream fit the bill magnificently. Flavors like curry leaves are hard to substitute, but between proliferating Indian supermarkets and online shopping, just about any ingredient is readily available. Rice Krispies combine with chutneys, onion, potato, tomato, and pomegranate for a great TV-watching snack; tortillas find a place in Shah's recipes too. While many dishes are vegetarian, she doesn't exclude meats, writing that many Indians freely consume beef. Shah offers a veg version of butter chicken--now ubiquitous in the States--with tofu or cheese. Shah's approach and colorful photographs make this a delightful starter cookbook for Indian fare.

COPYRIGHT(2024) Booklist, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Starred review from June 1, 2024

According to food critic and journalist Shah, Indian American cuisine is all about adaptation, and adaptation is a two-way culinary street. In her debut cookbook, Shah introduces 125 recipes for Indian dishes that incorporate ingredients from the global pantry, plus American recipes are given a new twist with Indian ingredients. After exploring the origins of Indian American cooking and doing a bit of culinary myth-busting, Shah starts things off with breakfast dishes, including masala shaksuka and the Ultimate Desi Egg Sandwich. Recipes for building-block items like chutneys and a few classic dishes like butter chicken (leftovers of which can be repurposed into nachos) follow, as well as chapters dedicated to snack foods such as Rice Krispie bhel and chile-cheese toasts (avocado toast's more glam cousin). There is even a chapter focusing on pizza the Indian American way. The writing itself is a joy, being richly infused with Shah's sense of humor. VERDICT Even with other terrific guides on the subject, such as Priya Krishna's Indian-ish (which is cited in Shah's bibliography), cooks will not be able to resist this vivaciously written and vibrantly packaged paean to Indian American culinary mashups.--John Charles

Copyright 2024 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

Starred review from July 15, 2024
Los Angeles–based food writer Shah wows in her debut cookbook, an attempt to define and document Indian American cuisine. Born to immigrant parents who had to adapt their recipes because of limited access to authentic Indian ingredients, Shah and generations of Indian Americans grew up eating blended fare featuring flavors from both cultures. Bold, flavorful, and only sometimes spicy, these recipes represent a cuisine that has been largely overlooked in the ever-growing Asian cooking boom in America. From delicious breakfast options including saag paneer frittatas and a beautiful shahi tukda French toast made with saffron, pistachios, and rose petals, these dishes are both toothsome and elegant. Shah showcases sandwiches, dosas and samosas, and rice and noodles, along with some surprising pizza options that will tantalize the taste buds and earn her a devoted following. Alongside such tempting entries as classic butter chicken, saag paneer lasagna, and spicy cilantro chutney mussels, she also aims to educate, with sidebars on eating meat and Indian drinking culture. To round out any meal, she finishes with appealing recipes for an array of chutneys, vegetables, beverages, and desserts. Complete with mouthwatering photos, the result is an alluring collection that every true foodie will embrace.